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Fuling

In 1996, Peace Corps volunteer, Peter Hessler, arrived in Fuling, a quiet town on the Yangtze, to teach English. There is excellent mobile phone coverage at the bottom of the Yangtze River, although Huang Dejian is one of the few people who know this. He’s the director of the new White Crane Ridge Underwater Museum and today his phone rings constantly at a depth of 40 metres. The museum is the strangest sight in the city of Fuling – visitors enter via a 100-metre-long escalator encased in a steel tube, like a massive straw dipped into the muddy Yangtze. Fuling sits at the junction of the Yangtze and the Wu Rivers, and in the mid-1990s it felt sleepy and isolated. There was no main road or railway line, and the Yangtze ferries took seven hours to reach Chongqing, the nearest large city. If I ate lunch in the town centre, I often attracted a crowd of 30 spectators. The city had one escalator, one nightclub, and no traffic lights. I didn’t know anybody with a car. In those days, I worked at Fuling Teachers College. Nearly all of my students came from rural homes with little tradition of education; many had illiterate parents. My students taught me many things, including what it meant to come from the countryside, where the vast majority of Chinese lived at the beginning of the reform era. They also taught me about the complexities of poverty in China. My students had little money, but they were optimistic, and they had opportunities; it was impossible to think of such people as poor.
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The narrator is a volunteer working in one of the Chinese districts.

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Huang Dejian is new museum dedicated to marine life.

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To get to the museum visitors have to use a set of moving stairs.

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The escalator is surrounded with a steel tube.

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The town of Fuling is isolated and backward.

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You should take a ferry to get to this town.

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Nowadays Fuling possesses railway station.

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Indigenous people used to observe the narrator’s meal in a local café.

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This town didn’t observe general standards of comfortable living

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The majority of narrator’s students were illiterate.

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With the help of his students the narrator realizes all peculiarities of Chinese poverty.

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The narrator regarded his students to be backward.

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